Engine Manifold Repair
5-9-2009 to 6-8-2009
|So much for patience. The shaft is mild steel and slotted down the middle. My tapping and heating distorted it badly so I broke down and just cut the damn thing off. After that a few minutes with a chisel and a punch was enough to get the it apart. I then mounted the plate in my drill press and chased the hole out. Good as new!|
|Got the manifold back from the machine shop. For $60 they removed the rusted studs and media blasted the manifold. That saved a ton of time. I cleaned it with acetone then applied Eastwood's high-temp coating. It looks pretty good. This needs to dry for 48 hours then I can install the manifold. I also coated the heat riser parts.|
|I could not find stainless studs but the old ones lasted almost 70 years so I probably should not worry about it. Here I am installing the new studs in the exhaust manifold. The silver goop is a high-temperature anti-seize. I use it on anything that might rust in place or get really hot.|
to assemble the heat riser. The only tricky part is installing
that fragile and impossible to replace bimetallic spring. I put
anti-seize from that blue can on everything to lubricate and protect.
Then I used a new gasket and stainless hardware to install the heat
riser. I scored a whole bag of these gaskets on e-Bay.
The manifold is now officially done! I am a little concerned though. The heat riser plate I scored off my spare engine is not very flat. If I see any leakage I will have to rip this all apart again and get the plate machined flat. For now I will just wait and see what happens..