It is bound to get cold soon so I decided to jump on the nice weather while it lasts. I wanted to check out the oil pressure regulator while changing the oil but I seem to have misplaced the rebuild kit I bought a year or more ago. That really annoys me because I keep an up-to-date inventory of parts including where they are located but I must have missed the regulator kit. It is a tiny box and I probably put it somewhere clever and/or stupid. But for now I can just do the regular stuff.
I drove the car for 20 minutes or so then threw it on the lift and drained the oil. The drain plug is not exactly leaking but it has a drip of oil on it all the time. I need to find a copper sealing washer to replace the one on there. Looks like my oil pan gasket from from 2009 is starting to seep a bit. Things just don’t last anymore 🙂I also went around and greased all the grease fittings. There are a few… The kingpins are much easer to grease when the wheels are off the ground. While I was here I put a wrench on all the suspension nuts and bolts. I found a couple that were not as tight as I would have liked. I checked the diff and it was fine. I am not sure why I have never cleaned up the differential. I should do that someday. It is covered in crap.When I worked on the spare differential last month I found a brass tag on it that had 41/9 on it. This one has 41/10. I thought that might be a date but my care was built in late 1940 so I don’t see how that could be. The gear ratio makes more sense. That would make the one on my care a 4.10 ratio and the spare a 4.56. I will have to hit the parts books and see if that makes sense. I am pretty sure these are Spicer (Dana) 23 axles.The transmission was down an ounce or so. It is always wet. I have a gasket set for it, I should probably tear into it and see if I can make that better. While I had the car in the air I also adjusted the brakes and ran my left-hand thread cleaning die over the front wheel that I did not do earlier. These studs have always been wonky, in fact I have the lug nuts and studs numbered because they don’t all interchange. Once the threads were cleaned up I tried to put the original lug nuts back on and NONE of them were great. Two I could not even get started. So I put 4 new ones on. I could get a left-handed tap and fix the lug nuts but they cost less than $2 for new ones.With the car back on the ground I refilled the crankcase with Valvoline VR1 10W-30. Wal-Mart has this cheap but only in the 5-quart jugs which are not the most convenient. I bought a Fram C4 cartridge this time for the oil filter. The old Wix/NAPA filter is on the left. It is metal and has a rubber seal for the canister. The Fram is paper and has a cardboard gasket. I am not impressed. It will work fine but I will get the Wix filter next time.Here is the oil filter housing after removing the dirty oil and wiping it out. I reused the rubber gasket from the old filter and poured oil over the new filter to pre-fill it before putting the lid back on.I forgot to take a picture but I checked the point gap and lubed the distributor. Then I pulled the plugs. They are a little sooty but not horrible. The rebuilt carb is not starting well hot (likes to flood). When I got the car running again I leaned the idle mixture out 1/4 turn. 1/2 caused a stumble. I will see if that helps the hot starts and soot. I think these plugs are from 2005 and are probably due for replacement. Wires too. The points are old but don’t have a lot of miles, so I am tempted to let those go.I cleaned and gapped the plugs the put them back in.
Besides the stuff above I also lubed the clutch linkage, pedals, starter, and generator. I checked the water level in the battery and checked a bunch of electrical connections from the wiring harness replacement. Nothing loose was found, so that is good.
20 years or so ago I lucked into a guy who was street rodding a 41 Studebaker. I bought all the parts he did not want including a spare engine, overdrive transmission, and a differential. I always meant to tear into the diff to see if the brake drums were any good but never did. But when I was looking at the parts book I noticed that it showed a cover to keep road debris out of the parking brake slot. That was missing from my car so I decided to see if the covers were on the backup diff. I had to dig the axle out of the shed and haul it around to the garage, but I will spare you that part of the saga.
I did not want to work on the floor so I figured out how to put the diff on the lift. The lift pads are under the spring perches and a 2×4 keeps the nose of the diff up. Two hefty c-clamps are holding the spring perches to the lift pads. There was maybe a pint of gear oil in the diff. No signs of water or metal in the oil.I assume this is September, 1941. Unless this thing has a really odd axle ratio. It is a diff for overdrive cars, which was different than the straight three-speed.Next I had to get the hubs and drums loose. Both sides did not want to turn, but after working the shoe adjustments for a while and prying on it I got them to move. After that it was just putting the hub puller on. Before I beat on it I lowered the axle onto jack stands. I am not sure I can hurt the lift with a hammer but why take the chance?This is about what I expected. The cylinder has visible corrosion poking out the ends and at some point both water and oil got in here. Yuck. Lets tear the brakes off.The axles have some rust as well. But this will clean up. The brake shoes are obviously toast but the metal is in good shape and these things have a lot of value as cores. In fact you can’t buy new shoes for this car unless you provide usable cores. So these will go in a box for that purpose.The pistons are frozen in the wheel cylinders and everything is corroded all to hell. A little tapping with a brass drift got the pistons out. Nothing good is happening here. The cylinder is not great with a lot of pitting. These cylinders are still easy to find but I will keep the old ones since some day they will be rare and they don’t take a lot of space. BTW, on this car the front cylinders are 1″ and the rear are 7/8″After cleaning and wire-wheel work here is the brake hardware. Most of this is good and can be used again. Not a lot of rust! The parking brake linkage on the left may in fact be nicer than what is on my car right now. We will see the next time I have my rear drums off.The adjusters and backing plates are decent. I sprayed everything down with an anti-corrosion spray for long term storage.The $200 dollar question is how good are the drums? New drums are hard to find and cost about that. Plus the machine work to move the hubs over and press in new wheel studs. Cross your fingers….080″ over. Not as good as I hoped nor as bad as I feared. I need to go look but I think mine are similar.Make a note for later…The other side would have just been a repeat of the first side. But it has left-hand threads on the wheel studs. The left-hand threads on my car are a little boogered up so I bought this thread-cleaning die. I tried it out on the spare diff first then on the rear wheel from my car. Worked great and cleaned up the threads without removing much metal. My plan was to use the lug nuts from my car to pull the hub on the spare diff. The problem is that once I cleaned up the threads two of the lug nuts from my car refused to start. They had boogered up threads as well. Worse yet, I only have one spare in my parts stash. I could have bought a left hand tap to clean them up but they only cost $1.50 each so I just ordered 6 new ones to keep from having this problem again. After a week wait for the parts to arrive I am ready to rock. This drum was not very tight at all and popped right off. This side actually has the cover that is missing from my car and the other side of this diff. It is just a strip of metal held in by that cotter pin you can see up by the backing plate. Here is what it looks like removed and cleaned up. According to the parts book there is a spring that helps keep in in place but I am not sure how that would even work. I found new ones at one of the Studebaker vendors but they are $4.00 for a sliver of sheet metal. Since I am not driving in snow or mud I think I am just going to forget about it. Except for this part this side was pretty much the same as the other. This drum is .080″ over too. Here is the diff ready to go back into storage. Brake parts are removed, corrosion treated and preventative applied, and the hubs are on loosely. I am going to leave the diff empty. I hope I don’t regret that. I lowered it back down and dragged it out to the shed. The other parts were labeled, added to my inventory, and stored away.
I also put the wheel back on my car with two new lug nuts. With the good nuts and clean threads they spin on by hand and torque easily. Much improved! I still have 5 good left-hand lug nuts, the next time I pull a front wheel I will clean up those threads and replace lug nuts as needed.
I figured out more than a year ago that my flasher was the reason the indicator light in my turn signal switch is not working. I have tried a couple of flashers. I even took one apart to see if I could modify it. Nothing worked. So I decided to throw technology at the problem.
I found this solid-state 6-V positive ground on ledlights.com. It looked perfect so I ordered on. It came with a circuit diagram, the flasher, and a rubber mounting strap. Lets see if it works.I plugged in the new flasher and used a jumper wire to attach the ground connection. Somehow I managed not to get the new flasher in the picture but it is there…Bingo! It even clicks just like a mechanical one. I thought about making a metal bracket to hold this thing or just leaving it hang under the dash. But I just decided to use the rubber holder it comes with. I zip-tied it in place using an existing hole. I reused the screw you see next to the cigar lighter to ground it. It works fine there and is right under where the speaker grill would be if the car had a radio so I can hear it clearly. That and the light should help keep me from driving around with the turn signal flashing. I think this pretty much finishes the turn signals. Still a few wiring jobs left to do. Both heater blower motors need new wires, as does the spotlight and the horn button. But that will have to wait for another day.
Last night I got the third brake light installed but did not install the rear seat. Part of the reason is that there has been a loud squeak coming from back there and I want to take a stab at fixing it.
Otherwise known as a third brake light. Since my feeble attempt at LED taillights almost 20 years ago (!!!) I have been trying to figure out what to do about the pathetic dim taillights on this car. I finally found a solution I like.
Now that the weather is warming up I decided to try and fix some of the damage done by my now-ex rebuilder. JB Weld to the rescue?!? There were two stripped holes on the carb. The plan was to find a nice long screw that fits each hole, oil them so the epoxy will not stick, clean the holes, then goop the screws in. Once the epoxy hardens the screws will hopefully come out and leave better threaded holes than I have now.
Back in December I put the old brake shoes back on the car. I kinda knew this was a bad idea, and it turns out it was. The brakes did not work very well and squealed a lot. So, I am going to put the new shoes back on and get them right this time.
When I was working on the brakes I found that the car would not idle. Stalled every time. It has been nearly 20 years (!!!) since I rebuilt the carb back in 2005 so I took it out to examine. This is going to be a long post, so buckle up.
I left off the last post with the passenger side front brake locking up when the brakes were applied. Time has been short but over the last week or so I have been pecking away at it.
I have had no time since I modified the Ammco 1750 to try it out. Time to fix that. I only have about three hours to work on it but it should not take long (this is where the ominous music kicks in!).Continue reading →
